Good Morning, Everyone!
I am excited to announce that the living room remodel is DONE. We finished up over the weekend and were able to move furniture back on Sunday night.
Here is the final result!
With the living room back together I was able to clear out the extra items from my workroom and finish taking out the laminate flooring. I did that on Monday afternoon and while I was moving around my makeshift sewing table (a board set across plastic three drawer bins with books on top to raise the table height), I decided it was time to change things up.
We happen to have some extra lumber around after our remodel project, as well as some reclaimed deck lumber that was given to us by our friend, Matt. After a few quick measurements I set up the miter saw and got to work.
To make this table you will need:
-2×4 Lumber plus a top piece, I used a piece of MDF (pressboard) which measures 22″ by 55″
-3/8″ drill bit
-Phillips drill bit
For this project I cut 2x4s into:
A: (4) 31″
B: (2) 22″
C: (2) 53″
D: (3) 19″
E: (1) 55″
First I made the sides. Attach a B board to two A boards, 1.5″ in from the edge of the B board, keeping them even on the top. Next attach a D board 6″ up from the bottom of the A boards. Make Two side panels.
Next I flipped the side panels upside down, so that the B boards were on the floor. Then I attached a C board to both edges of the side panels. Then I measured and marked the middle of the C boards and attached a D board in the center for support.
Then I used the E board on the back side of the table as a cross piece for additional support. I kept the E board 6″ from the bottom, even with the D boards on the sides. I only added this support to the back side, so that the front of the table is open for your feet.
Next I placed my 22×55″ board on top of the table, lining up all of the edges and corners. I place screws on each corner to hold the table top in place.
Next came the tricky part. I wanted to inset my sewing machine, so that it was even with the table top. Measure the height of your sewing maching from the bottom of the machine to the machine bed. My Juki is 3″ tall at the machine bed, which means that is how deep my inset needed to be.
The footprint of the machine is 8″x18″, so my shelf needed to be at least that big.
The MDF on the table top is 3/4″ thick, so I needed to create a shelf, 2 1/4″ down from that.
Back to the garage I went. I found a piece of scrap lumber that was 10″ wide. I cut two, 2 1/4″ strips from that, and found another piece that I cut the same width, and 20″ long. I also cut a 10″x20″ section, that would be the shelf for my machine to sit on.
The next task was to figure out where my machine should sit on the table. I picked a spot 2 1/2″ in from the long edge, and 3/4″ in from the center support. I drew out the machine shape on the table top with a marker. Then I used a 3/8″ drill bit to drill holes in the outline at each corner of the drawn area.
Next I used a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the machine bed in the table top. I checked the fit of the machine and adjusted where I thought it was too tight. Then I used a sanding block to smooth out the edges.
Next I flipped the table over, and screwed the 2 1/4″x10″ strip to the center D support, tight against the front C board. Then I screwed the 20″ piece to the C board, tight against the 2 1/4×10″ that I had just attached. These two will serve as the shelf supports, and should form a “L” shape.
Next I placed my 10×20″ shelf on the L shape supports. I screwed the board in place every 3-4″.
Flip the table over and you should have a shelf inset 3″ into the table, with an opening the perfect size for your machine. I placed a folded piece of flannel under the machine to help with vibration.
Its not a professional sewing table, but it was built from leftover and donated materials and didn’t cost me an extra cent. Its much more stable than my last contraption, that’s for sure! I am looking forward to free motion quilting on such a large surface, even with my machine bed.
How is your sewing table set up?